Culinary and Wine Trends

By Robert M. Parker, Jr.

" The revolution in wine quality has coincided with an extraordinary revolution in the restaurants of the world. Although France and Italy clearly dominated culinary circles 30 years ago, today the finest restaurants are often found in such unlikely places as Las Vegas, Tokyo and San Sebastián, Spain.

When I first began writing about wine 30 years ago, there may have been five or six great restaurants in Washington, DC, and virtually none in my hometown of Baltimore. Today, there are 30 or 40 top restaurants in DC, and even Baltimore now has at least a dozen top restaurants.

Meanwhile, New York City is arguably one of the greatest dining destinations in the world, equaled only, and somewhat surreally, by Las Vegas. (Who in the world could have predicted that?)

One of the biggest myths in wine today, constructed on half-truths, inaccurate observations and journalistic manipulation, is that the wine market has become so globalized that international companies are producing oceans of monochromatic wines from a limited number of grapes that all taste the same. This radical and profoundly false point of view holds that individuality and artisanal winemaking have been replaced by oceans of vapid wines made with little taste or character. This is appallingly untrue. "

Hmmm.
Discuss?

The Racheal Ray Debate

Cathy at The Noble Pig brings up a valid point ... she penned an entry about people either loving or hating Racheal Ray. I think the point is moot.

Photo Courtesy of jjdtx61

As long as people are cooking. Playing in their kitchens. Hitting the grocery store instead of Carls Jr or Wendy's. Preparing vegetables, meats and sauces at home. Preferably in front of their children and showing them how much fun it is to cook. Then who cares where they get recipes and ideas?

Right?

Jasmine Rae deLung
Jasmine Rae Bakery

Blowing minds since 2005. Jasmine Rae, just 27 years old, started very young without any formal training; nevertheless she’s transformed the San Francisco baking scene. She takes wasabi and transcribes it into savory butter cream frosting. Walking into her kitchen you are lambasted with creamy wafts of marzipan, spicy ginger, sweet sugar and you feel like you’ve been transported into a retro Willy Wonka scene.

There are cookies and muffins everywhere and large bowls of frosting jam-pack the counters. Loaves of bread are quietly steaming up their plastic bags in the corner. Jasmine Rae relies on a small team of confidantes and fellow (small, local) entrepreneurs to provide support and inspiration. Operating out of a third floor warehouse space converted into kitchen she has plans to open her own retail space before 2009 finishes.

1. Would you rather star in your own TV show or have your own cookbook series? Cookbook series – it’d be more like a novel that demonstrates my life experiences in relation to food.

2. Who are your heroes? My artist friend Catherine Mackey for her strong sense of self. My partner Rob for his fearless encouragement. My best friend Elsa for her comfort and vulnerability.

3. What are your food policy rules? Not too sweet, use fresh fruits and everything should be homemade.

4. What inspired your sweet path in life? Proving to myself that I can be bold and ballsy. I don’t have formal training and I want to expose people to food experiences that maybe aren’t familiar. Y’know – challenging the concept that basil is a savory herb. Oh! The smiles from my cupcakes.



5. How do you gauge success? By a lack of anxiety! (Laughs). By feeling happy and pleased with what I’m putting out into the world.

6. If someone gave you 1 million dollars for a Small Business loan, how would you use it? I’d open a few bakeries to ultimately fund an alternative school education school. A K-12 school – it’s been a lifelong dream of mine. I’d give the school my bakery so it could be self-sufficient.

7. What’s your favorite dessert? Well my dream dessert would be a manifestation of creamy, crunchy, Meyer lemon, burnt caramel and some kind of herb. Creative combinations.

8. Besides bold syrah, what’s your favorite style of wine? Dessert wines! You need things that sing well together. I used to hate scallops until I had them done really well. Just because you don’t like, say Merlot, doesn’t mean you will hate ALL merlots.

9. What is happy? What’s your happy place? Music is a very happy thing. It could be just driving down the freeway listening to Sly and The Family Stone.



10. What are 3 things you’ve learned on the job?
a. Education comes in all forms b. My time is more valuable than I think it is c. It’s important to work toward happy results above everything else

11. Last meal on earth? My Aunt Julie’s Christmas Dinner! Roast beast, white wine gravy, Yorkshire pudding, creamed onions…vee-rrry New England. Also the meal is very Syrah friendly. Aunt Juli sounds like an amazing cook! .
12. Favorite Travel Destination? Italy! It’s so vibrant.


13. Of all of San Francisco’s quirky holidays and celebrations what’s your favorite? I don’t really go out and do that stuff. But I believe San Franciscans are primed to receive art. Everyone in LA is an actor and everyone in San Francisco is an artist. When it’s hot outside, and you’re in the Mission, and everyone’s out and about around. Nothing is shocking. That is what is great!

14. Obsessed with any flavors these days? Meyer Lemons, definitely obsessed with Meyer Lemons.

Jasmine Rae can be contacted through her website: JasmineRaeBakery.com

Lauren Danziger
Lauren’s Gluten Free Kitchen

A tough as nails New Yorker producing sweet, sweet treats that are good for your mind, body and soul? Only Lauren Danziger could make such juxtaposition possible. A seamless chef and artful food culturist - Danziger has immersed herself in food for the past ten years.

After serving as a corporate drone for many years, Danziger was laid off and decided to turn the frown upside down. Starting her own enterprise was the best decision of her life and makes her life full and fulfilling.
Her current project, Lauren’s Kitchen is a gluten free-baked goods operation inspired by her own diagnosis of Celiac Disease. She still wanted to appreciate and eat good food and decided to do it the right way with incredible ingredients and a labor-intensive recipe practice.

" Gluten is a protein found in wheat, rye and barley -- and any derivative of
them. An estimated 1 in 133 Americans suffer from celiac disease, an
Autoimmune disease triggered by eating gluten. A growing number of people
are discovering wheat allergies and are eliminating gluten as a treatment
for autoimmune diseases and to improve general health. Lauren's Kitchen
baked goods are 100% gluten free. "

1. What are your favorite flavors? Anise & Licorice (I love licorice, but it’s not gluten free), Garlic (I use it like its going out of style) and Ginger (Obsessed!).

2. How do you stay focused and upbeat? The economy makes it difficult right now, but food is like air for me. I love food so it’s easy to stay focused. I enjoy what I’m dong and that makes it easy to get up in the morning. Loving what you do is so important.

3. Where will you visit for your next inspiration? Charleston, South Carolina for Southern Cuisine. My parents live there now and I’m really excited to start delving into that style of food. Also, I’ve re-connected with some of my Brooklyn family. I am really getting into 1940’s Italian Jewish Brooklyn Food Culture.

4. Past, Present or Future who would you invite over for dinner? Ayan Hirsi Ali, Ayn Rand, Julia Child, Michael J. Fox (Sooo Inspirational) and lets seeee... a man, a music man probably.

5. How many versions of a recipe do you make before you consider it yours? It’s only mine if I’ve spun it around and changed it and made it least 10 times. You’ve got to add your own ingredient changes and really practice it.

6. What is your favorite food & wine pairing? A nice, dry Tuscan (Italian) white wine and pears with pecorino. I love the crunch of pears with the pecorino cheese. Only in summer time. It reminds me of being a girl living in Italy. When I was just a hopeful kid living in Italy.

7. What’s the most frustrating thing about baking? *Laughs* Baking is scientific and specific as an art form. Cooking is liberal. I almost failed my baking section in culinary school. Baking is so detailed and creative. Its’ both. But you have to WATCH IT.

8. Why Gluten Free? I have Celiac Disease. I can’t eat anything with gluten in it. I love food and I missed eating pizza, pasta and sweets. I had to find a way to enjoy food again.

9. How does Syrah marry well with your style of cooking? Did you taste my meat sauce?!?! We’re both hearty, bold and vibrant. My food is deep and soulful. Just like Syrah it’s a gooey, fulfilling experience.

10. What is your favorite scent? Most of my memories are based on scent. My favorites are fresh, clean laundry and Spring Days when the scent of bud break and fresh, cut grass permeate the air.

11. Where do you see gluten free cooking and baking going? Up and Out. It’s one of the largest growing populations in the world. There’s very little you can’t do gluten free. It’s healthier, too.

12. You’re stranded on a desert island with magic growing trees that can grow anything. What are your magic trees growing? Hmmm. Magic Trees, eh? They’d be growing these cookies that my great-great-grandmother used to make in the old country. My mother used to make them. I can never have them again and on my desert island I’d eat the cookies and I’d gluten again. Those cookies were so amazing.

Rose Bud, indeed.

Lauren Danziger can be contacted through her website
and she encourages you to test out gluten free baking at home.

Syrah Sweeties

(Gluten Free Dark Chocolate Syrah Sandwich Cookies with Mascarpone Frosting)

Set oven at 350F

7 Tbsp, dark chocolate cocoa powder
1/4 tsp baking soda
1/4 tsp salt
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1 Cup, gluten free flour (I use Pamela's)
5 tblsps butter, melted
2/3 cup sugar, white granulated
1/3 cup, light brown sugar
1/2 cup, low fat, plain yogurt or sour cream
1/2 cup, Kinton Syrah
1 1/2, tsp gluten free vanilla

Combine the flour, salt, cinnamon and baking soda in a bowl and sift
together evenly. In a small saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter.
Once melted, remove from heat and add the cocoa powder and sugars to the
butter creating a sand-like mixture. Alternating the yogurt and the wine,
mix into the cocoa/butter mixture; half the yogurt followed by half the
wine. Repeat. Stir in the vanilla. Add the dry ingredients to the wet
and stir until combined - do not over stir or dough will become tough. On a cookie pan sprayed with gluten free cooking spray, bake the cookies off for 8 mins.
Makes 30 cookies.

Place cookies on a cooling rack and make sure they are thoroughly cooled
before filling them with frosting.

For the frosting
Mascarpone cheese, 1 8oz container
1 Cup, confectioners sugar (you can add more if you want it sweeter and
thicker)
2 tsp gluten free vanilla
1/4 tsp, cinnamon

Using an electric mixer, combine the mascarpone with the sugar, vanilla and
cinnamon, whipping until just combined - DO NOT over whip! Frosting can be
made ahead and kept for several days.

Take one cookie and using a small offset spatula, smear the cookie with the
frosting. Top the filling with another cookie to make a sandwich. Continue until you have iced two cookies together, using all cookies. Refrigerate the sandwiches to set for an hour. Serve chilled.

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Jerry Lee
Restaurant Wine Buyer & Manager Extraordinaire



Born in Taiwan, Lee came to the U.S. when he was just 7 years old. His grandparents had Chinese restaurants all over the country. Eventually his dad worked in the kitchen and his mom worked in the front of the house at one of these restaurants. The Lee Family worked very hard because their dream was to open their own restaurant. In 1985 his parents dream came true.

After moving to San Luis Obispo to open their own place -- Jerry became very excited about the wines of Arroyo Grande Valley since it was in his own backyard. Throughout his adulthood, Lee would take weekend trips to wineries and taste what Santa Ynez had to offer. After graduating high school Lee moved to Santa Barbara and landed a great job at Michel Richard’s CITRONELLE.
After 9 years at CITRONELLE, in 2006 the famous dining spot closed its doors. Lee accepted a Restaurant Manager position with San Ysidro Ranch. You might say restaurants are in his blood.

“When I came on board there was not one single lick of juice and they wanted me to build this world class wine list. I was like a kid in a candy store. NO budget and taste every day. As of today I have build this list at the ranch of 1100 selections with wines focusing on local and Europe. I LOVE Syrah, especially local Santa Barbara Syrahs. I have won The Best of Award of Excellence for 2007 and 2008 my goal is to get the Grand Award before I leave.”

1. What has proven to be your biggest obstacle? Traveling the world, finding the wines & seeing where they come from. I am a very visual person, reading books isn’t enough. I have to SEE it for myself.

2. How has wine changed your life? Because of wine I never finished college…{laughs}. It’s changed my life tremendously, I wasn’t big into school, but I grew up in a restaurant world. I’m infatuated with wine, I can relate to it. Constantly evolving, nuanced, changing, different to different people.

3. Do you believe in fate or serendipity? I have to make things happen. Ultimately. I do to a point, believe in fate, but I go back and forth all the time. That’s a grey area in life. I think things come to be, its not a miracle, you have to work for everything. Ya gotta WORK.

4. What’s your favorite place to relax with a bottle of Syrah, say Kinton Santa Barbara Syrah? At my house, with friends, with my barbecue on high and closest friends around. Can’t beat it, good wine and cooking.

5. Living or dead – what 5 people would you like to invite over for dinner? Bruce Lee, Marilyn Monroe, My great-great grandfather (heard so many stories), Thomas Jefferson and Kermit Lynch.

6. What motivates you to get up in the morning? Sunshine and a good cup of coffee

7. What makes you proud? To see the closest people I have around. To see how far I’ve come in life.

8. Where would you like to visit/travel next? Italy & Germany

9. You have the worlds crankiest person send back dish after dish – what do you do when they finally leave your restaurant? CALL them an ASSHOLE! Or, laugh at them.

10. How do you gauge happiness? Smiling, I’m a smiler. When happiness is around me, I’m constantly moving. I’m an agenda guy. The busier the happier.

11. Besides Syrah, what are the other popular bottlings on your list? Pinot Noir (hands down). But everyone should be learning their Spanish wines (Tempranillo, Grenacha) they offer great prices and are great gems.

12. Do manners matter? Yes, it does matter! Formal or informal – the way you present yourself is reactionary to and for the people around you.
13. Why do you work so hard? Because I don’t want to work later on, I work now so I can travel later. I want to see what the world has to offer, seeing everything….

14. Describe a typical Tuesday Night meal at your house… Grilled or seared pork chops with a red wine demiglace, baby bok choy, potatoes and a hearty red wine.

Jerry Lee encourages you to come visit him at his resort, which was just named by Forbes Traveler as the best hotel in America.

Luis E. Reyneri,
Majestic Fine Wines



Born in Havana, Cuba – Luis’ family emigrated in 1968 to NY and then in 1976 to Florida. Luis is a Boston University graduate and completed a semester abroad in Belgium where he caught the wine bug in Europe. During a 9-month sabbatical in 2004 with his wife, Jen (a photographer), and their 9 month old son, they jaunted through the vineyards of Europe recording their inspiration along the way. Luis worked harvest in Germany and in Burgundy (France). The Reyneri’s have two sons: Makani Kai 5, years old, and Luke Ezra, 1 year old.

He loved his experience working with the House of Blues – Las Vegas. “So much fun,” he said. In 2001 he heard about the Court of Master Sommeliers and began his journey towards the Master Sommelier diploma for which he is a candidate in 2009. Luis is the East Coast Prestige Account Manager for Jackson Family Wines.

1. What are your inspirations? Having been born in Cuba, I am very appreciative of the hospitality industry’s opportunities that exist. I enjoy traveling with my family when I can. The food and wine culture and community really are exciting– I try to teach my sons how to appreciate life.

2. How did you get started in the wine industry? During my semester abroad in Brussels, I worked at the Sheraton as a busser. We had a culinary class and tasted a ’45 Cheval Blanc. It was that epiphany moment. Later I had a candlelit dinner at the cellar at Mumm in Champagne and I knew this was the industry for me.

3. What expressions or words do you exclaim most often? Come on! (Said with a blended New York/Florida accent). All the Best!

4. How do you gauge happiness? For me, it’s very familial. My two boys – every day that I can see them and be with them is a lucky day.

5. How do you prepare yourself for tastings? Well preparing for blind exams – I ask the good lord to give me the sense of sight and taste.

6. If you could only pick one extravagance to take with you on the proverbial desert island what would you pick? An abundance of shrimp and champagne. I love shrimp. I’m a scuba diver.

7. What is your greatest love? In addition to My Wife, spending time with my boys on the water. I live near the beach in North Palm Beach, FL.

8. What is the most important issue that just doesn’t get the attention it deserves? Common Sense – if I could bottle common sense, I’d be a rich man. People have just lost track of politeness and traditional values. Please and thank you, hold the door open, let people in, in traffic. Hospitality teaches you to be graceful and respectful.

9. How has the world of wine changed since you started? The Internet, {gives} more accessible education means to empower the consumer that puts a greater emphasis on winemakers to create better and better wines.

10. How do you think you’ll know when you’ve achieved enough? The road to perfection is always under construction. I was brought up to continue to strive. Success is a journey not a destination. “There is no joy in smooth sailing”

11. What tickles your fancy? To one day own a place in Cuba, go fishing and diving with my family and enjoy a fine Cuban cigar.

12. Which celebrity, past or present, do you most identify with? Bono – he’s doing great things.

13. Last meal on earth would be…? A typical Cuban meal cooked by my mother. Every day is a celebration. Why deal with bad people, bad food, and bad wine.

14. What is the next stepping-stone for you? To achieve the Master Sommelier diploma, I’d like to be the first Cuban Master Sommelier and one day is able to help the Cuban people in our industry...

Luis Reyneri can be contacted at Luis.reyneri@mtnvyds.com
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February Profile: Margaux Pierog

Margaux Pierog
Regal Wines

If you were ever in search of a knowledgeable real sommelier type, someone who could really lay out the facts with finesse and an unstodgy vocabulary, then Margaux Pierog would end your search. Done and Done. She is young, she is intelligent. She is pretty, she is also pretty smart. And best of all, Pierog can name & define 10 obscure wine appellations faster than you can recite “Peter Piper Picked a Pickled Pepper” three times fast.

Pierog grew up in Dana Point, California – a relaxed beach community. Her family encouraged her to seek the keys of the world and unlock secrets. And that’s just what she’s done, as a wine educator, for the last two years for Regal Wines.

1. What single person, place or thing has most significantly altered the course of your life? Studying abroad in Paris, really took me out of my element. Living there allowed me figure out what was most important in life. There was so much out there to take in each day and new parts of the city to explore. I had to be bigger than my realm of comfort.

2. What is your greatest passion? Learning, without question. Not just about wine, but surrounding things that I don’t know much about. Also, my family and maintaining a close group of friends who keep me centered and laughing!

3. What makes you happy? Mad? Mad? People who don’t laugh! Laziness!! It’s horrendous! Happy? Knowing that what I’ve been a part of is better off than before I started being a part of it.

4. Has the economy affected your job in any ways? Not really. People always want to learn and there are so many ways to share education. But I have had to re-focus on the more popular classes though. Classic topics.

5. What have proven to be the hardest pieces of the wine puzzle to learn? Italy. Sometime I think that the Italians makes rules just to break them. I adore Italian wines since they are so food friendly. But trying to delve into Italy after France and California is difficult.

6. What is your favorite food & wine pairing? Anything with champagne. Do you really even need food? I also like Kendall-Jackson Late Harvest Chardonnay with Caramel Corn. Mmm I like Spanish Cava, too.

7. What’s your next destination or just your favorite destination? My dream is to visit Greece and Portugal. Oh! The wine and culture there. I need to make it happen before I’m 30.

8. Tell us about one of your secret cheap thrills? Sancerre, a baguette and goat cheese. That’s perfect for a simple lunch or dinner. A complete thrill.

9. Which country or varietal is your specialty? Wonderful. Priorat. It’s in Northeastern Spain. Priorat are blends, usually of Mourvedre, Carignane and of course SYRAH! They are brooding, complex and delicate all at the same time.

10. Top advice for an up and coming aspiring sommelier? Check your facts. It’s important. So much wine info is out there is wrong. So have due diligence, Become an expert, a real expert on world wine. Constantly reading and learning.

11. Would you rather be caught in granny panties in public or paying corkage on a bottle of 2-buck chuck at an upscale restaurant? Granny Panties as long as they aren’t orange or yellow. People might get the wrong idea from yellow granny panties.

12. What is the most overlooked varietal? Syrah! Wholeheartedly. It’s not just pure black pepper and spice. It has a myriad of nuance – chocolate, raspberry, leather and mint.

13. And the next thing on your learning radar? Greece… there is more there then Retinsa.

14. Leave us with a quote… I don't think much of a man who is not wiser today than he was yesterday. ~Abraham Lincoln


Margaux Pierog recommends you read A History of Food by Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat
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